BUYING GUIDE

GEMSTONE ENHANCEMENT CODES

Published by the American Gem Trade Association.
Enhancement: Any treatment process other than cutting and polishing that improves the appearance (color/clarity/phenomena), durability, or availability of a gemstone.
N: The "N" symbol appears on the chart only for natural stones which are not currently known to be enhanced; however, the "N" symbol can also be used for other natural gemstones in the event that a gemstone has received no enhancement and the seller will provide a guarantee that there has been none.
E: The "E" symbol indicates that a gemstone has undergone its traditional enhancement process.

 

PEARL FACTS

Because of the rarity of naturally occurring pearls, a process of cultivating pearls was introduced in the early 1900s. In this process, a small bead of polished shell is inserted into an oyster or mollusk to act as an irritant and produce a pearl, which can take up to 24 months. These pearls are referred to as cultured pearls. Pearls are classically elegant and never go out of style.

Types of pearls

Akoya-These pearls were the first type of pearl to be cultured. Japan and China are the main producers of these pearls. They are consistently round, which makes them perfect for strands. Colors range from white to cream, though some can be gray or black.
Freshwater-The freshwater pearl is usually slightly less round, smaller in size, and possesses less luster than other varieties of saltwater pearls. These pearls are usually cultivated in China and provide a value-priced option.
Mabé-(MAH bay) Instead of growing inside an oyster or mollusk like other pearls, the mabé pearl actually grows against the shell of the oyster, creating a dome-shaped pearl. This pearl is harvested, then assembled. The nucleus is removed and replaced by resin, while mother-of-pearl is used to cover the flat back. Mabés traditionally have high luster and lower prices than round pearls.
South Sea-These pearls are cultured in the northern waters of Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. These pearls are considerably larger than akoya pearls and much more sensitive during the cultivation process. South Sea pearls are naturally white, cream, or golden in color.
Tahitian-These pearls are slightly smaller than the South Sea pearl, but are also sensitive during the cultivation process. The colors of black, silver, and gray occur naturally and they are cultured in Tahiti as their name implies.

Color

Pearls are produced in a variety of colors, as noted in the types of pearls. Most range from white, cream, and yellow to pink, silver, and black. Most pearls will have both a primary color, the first color you will notice, and a secondary color, the overtone you notice when you take a closer look. Color variation does not decrease the value of the pearl, but is important when matching pearls to be used in strands, earrings, bracelets, etc.

Luster

A pearl's luster is the result of multiple layers, also called the nacre (NAY ker), that the oyster or mollusk secreted to make the pearl. The thicker the nacre, the more luster a pearl has. You will notice the luster as the deep sheen that reflects light on the surface of the pearl.

Shape

Pearls come in a variety of different shapes. The most coveted of these is round. Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls are most often the roundest of the pearls. Other shapes can make beautiful jewelry as well, sometimes providing you with different price options.

Surface

Because pearls rely on an uncontrollable environment in which to grow, very rarely will you find a perfect pearl. The surface of a pearl may not always be smooth, often including spots, bumps, etc. The beauty of these pearls may be enhanced by the ability to sometimes be camouflaged during the stringing and setting process.

Size

The size of the oyster or mollusk that a pearl is produced within will have a direct effect on the size of the pearl. The size alone may not greatly impact the price of a pearl, but when you combine it with a perfectly round shape and beautiful luster, the value will dramatically increase.

 

RING SIZING

We offer custom ring sizing at no additional charge. Most of our rings can be sized, but due to the nature of some designs, not all rings can be sized. When placing your order, an asterisk (*) beside a ring size option lets you know that your ring will be custom sized. Size options without the asterisk are stock sizes. Most custom sized ring orders leave our facility in as little as two business days. Use our convenient Ring Sizer to determine your ring size. Custom sized rings are not accepted for return.
Download and Print the Ring Sizer (PDF document)

Ring Sizer Instructions

In order to determine your ring size, we ask you to use the two different ways shown in the document. You may use just one, but we recommend using both in order to cross check the results and minimize the possibility of making a mistake.

First, using the sizer strip you have cut out, place it around the finger on which you wish to wear your ring. Make the numbers face outward and pull the sizer through the slit over the largest part of your finger (possibly your knuckle).

Be sure to pull it tightly for a more accurate sizing. Look at the slit and write down the number that lines up with it.

Second, use your own ring that fits the finger on which you wish to wear your new ring. Place the ring onto the circular sizers. Whichever circle your ring fits most closely with will be your ring size. If it falls in between sizes, go with the larger one.

The number results for both should match. If they do not, we suggest that you use the larger one to insure that you will be able to wear it when you receive it. Please note that your fingers will always measure smallest when it is cold, so you will not want to measure when they are cold.

We offer custom ring sizing at no additional charge. Most of our rings can be sized, but due to the nature of some designs, not all rings can be sized. When placing your order, an asterisk (*) beside a ring size option lets you know that your ring will be custom sized. Size options without the asterisk are stock sizes. Most custom sized ring orders leave our facility in as little as two business days. Use our convenient Ring Sizer to determine your ring size. Custom sized rings are not accepted for return.

 

THE 4 C's OF DIAMONDS

Buying a diamond is often a very personal experience. Diamonds can be bought to signify love, significant accomplishments, or milestones in your life or that of a gift's recipient. Unlike when you buy clothing, electronics, or cars, the features of a diamond may not seem quite so obvious to you. At AJ's Jewelers, we would like to change that. The more you know about your diamond jewelry, the more confident you will feel when making your diamond jewelry choices. Take a moment to learn more about the 4Cs and find out how they play a an important role in making your diamond jewelry unique.

Shape

The shape of the diamond is often confused with the cut. AJ's Jewelers carries diamonds that are round, princess, oval, pear, and marquise. Choose the shape that you like based on your style and you cannot go wrong. (See Figure below)

Cut

The cut of a diamond determines its brilliance or sparkle. Each shape will be cut differently. Before a diamond is cut, the location of inclusions and flaws, the natural coloration, and the original shape of the rough stone are studied extensively. The stone facets are then mapped out and cut in a way that maximizes size, shape, and clarity. For optimal light performance, you will want a diamond that is cut neither too shallow nor too deep, like the stones that AJ's Jewelers offers. (See Figure below)

Color

Diamonds are graded based on the amount of color they do or do not possess. The scale runs from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow). An absolutely colorless diamond is rare and therefore very valuable. At AJ's Jewelers, our jewelry contains near colorless (G-J) diamonds because we feel that they give you the best overall value. (See Figure below)

Clarity

A diamond is distinguished by its natural characteristics, just as a person would be noted for her blue eyes or his brown hair. Notated as a diamond's clarity, these characteristics can be present on the surface (blemishes) or within the stone (inclusions). The clarity is judged by the number and types of these characteristics and is designated using a scale that runs from Fl, defined as flawless, to I3, defined as inclusions visible with the naked eye. A flawless diamond is truly rare. (See Figure below)

Carat Weight

The unit of measure used for the weight of a diamond is the carat. As a matter of reference, a carat is equivalent to .2 grams or .007 of an ounce. Carat weight can also be divided further by using points. There are 100 points in one carat. So a 1/4 (.25) carat stone can also be expressed as 25 points and mean exactly the same thing. When comparing two diamonds, please note that just because one is twice the carat weight of the other does not mean that it will appear to be twice the size.

 

 

THE 4 C's OF GEMSTONES

Buying a gemstone is often a very different experience than buying a diamond. Gemstones are bought based on favorite colors, wardrobe matches, personality, and fashion trends. While gemstones are judged using the 4Cs, just as diamonds do, each is judged separately. For example, a sapphire is compared to another sapphire, but wouldn't be compared to an emerald or aquamarine. Choose your gemstone jewelry based on your personal preferences.

Shape

AJ's Jewelers sells a number of different shaped gemstone jewelry. Some of our most popular shapes include round, marquise, oval, pear, princess, and baguette.

 Cut

Gems are cut in a variety of different ways. Transparent stones will often be cut with facets. Unlike diamonds, the facets are planned to maximize the color. Other stones like jade, opal, and onyx will be cut into a smooth domed shape known as a cabochon. While still other stones like cameos are intricately carved.

 Color

Gemstone color is different from judging the color of a diamond. Every gemstone has a range of color that runs from light to dark and more vivid to less vivid, with a small range of color considered preferable. All of the families of color are represented by gems of different types.

Red Mozambique, Garnet, Ruby, Pink Rhodolite, Garnet, Pink Sapphire Yellow Yellow Sapphire, Citrine Green Bloodstone, Emerald, Jade, Peridot Blue Aquamarine, Blue Chalcedony, Blue Spinel, Blue Zircon, Lapis, Blue Sapphire

Purple Amethyst, Tanzanite White Akoya Pearl, Freshwater Pearl, Mabe Pearl, South Sea Pearl, White Spinel, White Topaz, Moissanite, Opal Brown Smoky Quartz Black/Gray Tahitian Pearl, Onyx

 Clarity

Gems also have internal characteristics called inclusions. Some gemstones are known for having many inclusions like emerald or for having few inclusions like citrine. Each gemstone will be graded for clarity differently.

Carat Weight

Like diamonds, gemstones are measured using carats. A carat is equivalent to .2 grams or .007 of an ounce. Unlike diamonds, each gemstone has a different density which greatly contributes to the weight of the stone.

 

 

DIAMOND & GEMSTONE SIZE RANGES

We take pride in offering great value and quality. In order for us to offer this value, it is necessary to buy and sell diamonds in weight ranges. To help assist you in understanding these ranges, we have provided the following chart of size tolerances.

 

METAL TYPE

There are a variety of metals choices available for jewelry. Whether you like the allure of platinum or the range of options with the classic gold, you will find a number of stylish pieces, sometimes even combining the two metals. Today, alternative metals like sterling silver, titanium, and stainless steel give you additional options in look, strength, price, etc. Each choice has its own qualities, so base your choice on the ones that you value most.

Platinum

Platinum is generally 95% pure and does not tarnish or lose its rich white luster. Platinum is the heaviest of all the precious metals weighing approximately twice as much as karat gold. Its purity makes it hypoallergenic, perfect for people who are sensitive to the alloys used in gold. Platinum is also known for its strength and pliability, just one gram of platinum can drawn into a fine wire over one mile long.

Gold

Pure 24 karat gold is rarely used in jewelry because it is too soft for frequent wear. Gold is mixed with alloys like copper, silver, nickel, and zinc to give different colors, strength, and durability. Gold's purity is measured in karats, which indicate out of 24 parts how many parts are gold. For example, 18kt gold contains 18/24 gold and 6/24 alloy, while 14kt gold contains 14/24 gold and 10/24 alloy. Gold is traditionally seen in yellow and white colors, but can also be available in rose or green on occasion.

Sterling Silver

Sterling silver is usually 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. Silver is much more plentiful than platinum or gold and is much less expensive. It takes on a much higher polish than any other metal, but it does tarnish. The tarnish can be removed, but silver requires much more care than other metals.

Titanium

Titanium is a light, strong, and corrosion-resistant metal. Titanium offers you seven times the strength of platinum at about 1/3 of the weight. It is the hardest natural metal on earth and therefore offers more scratch resistance than gold or silver. In addition, titanium is also hypoallergenic. When ordering titanium rings, be extra sure about your ring size. The biggest drawback of titanium rings is that they cannot be sized by traditional ring sizing methods.

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is a low cost alternative to traditional metals. It is naturally hypoallergenic and will not rust or tarnish. Stainless Steel will not break or bend under normal usage and is stronger than any other alloy.

 

Everything You Need To know About Lab Grown Diamond

How is Lab Grown Created Diamond different from mined diamonds?

Created diamonds are manmade by simulating natural conditions of extreme heat and pressure or chemical vapor deposition. Both mined and lab grown diamonds are identical in chemical, optical and physical composition.

Is Lab – grown diamond a new phenomenon?

Diamonds were first created in a lab in the 1950’s. However, they weren’t gem quality diamonds that could be used in jewelry. Over the past few decades, the process was further perfected. However, only in the past few years has it been possible to produce large white gem quality diamonds that meet or surpass natural diamonds in terms of desirability. So, while white Lab- grown diamonds aren’t a new phenomenon, they have become viable for jewelry only recently.

If Lab – grown created diamonds are the same as mined diamonds, why are they classified separately?

To the naked eye there is no difference between a mined and created diamond. As the mined diamonds are created diamonds are very difficult to differentiate, complete disclosure is clearly in the best interests of the consumer. So that the customer may be well informed about their choices, our industry is bound by law and ethics to clearly disclose that our diamonds are Lab- grown or created.

What are the environmental implications of choosing Lab Grown?

Since these diamonds are created using only a fraction of energy and ecological damage that otherwise goes into creating and subsequently extracting a diamond, they are certainly more environmentally sound.

How much time does it take to grow a created diamond?

Depending on the color and size, it can take between 10- 12 weeks to create a diamond in the laboratory.

Are lab Grown Created Diamonds the same as diamond – materials?

No, diamond-like materials like Cubic Zirconium, Moissanite and diamond-coated materials are not diamond’s whereas Lab Grown Created Diamond is a true diamond with a wide range of color, clarity, carat and cut possibilities.

Are there any unique inscriptions for easy identification?

Yes, each Lab Grown diamond has a unique ID inscribed on the diamond itself. This information is detailed in your certificate so you can always identify your diamond with the help of a jeweler.

Are Lab Diamonds Cheaper than Mined Diamonds?

Yes. Lab created diamonds tend to retail at a 30- 40% discount off equivalent quality natural diamonds. Lab grown diamonds are priced based on their quality, just liked mined diamonds. We often get asked “how much is a 1 carat lab diamond?” And the answer is, it depends on the quality, just like mined diamonds. We will sell a 1ct white round brilliant for anywhere from $3,150 (near colorless slightly included) to $10,000 (perfect color, flawless).

Fancy-colored lab diamonds are significantly less expensive than colored natural diamonds. While natural blue or pink diamonds can sell for millions of dollars per carat at auction, lab grown yellow, blue, pink, green, and black diamonds are only a small premium over the price of colorless lab diamonds.

FTC (Federal Trade Commission) ruling on lab grown diamonds (Forbes Magazine)

“The commission no longer defines a “diamond” by using the term ‘natural’ because it is no longer accurate to define diamonds as natural when it is now possible to create products that have essentially the same optical, psychical, and chemical properties as mined diamonds,” the FTC ruled. Aug 2, 2018

The FTC based its decision in favor of scientific facts, not the mined-diamond industry lobby, giving consumers real information on which to make informed diamond purchasing decisions.

The ruling is simple. A diamond is a diamond no matter whether it is grown in a lab or comes out of the ground